They have a sleek silhouette, and can be installed in such a way as to preserve the aesthetic appeal of any door, as long as it’s not glass.
Wired mortise locks are at their core just a beefed up version of a classic bolt lock that has been in circulation for a long time. As mentioned in the previous section, if the controller authenticates the signal successfully, a signal will be sent to the lock power supply to activate electricity to the lock, thus unlocking it for a short period of time.
PARTS OF A MORTISE LOCK BLUETOOTH
With the wiring described here, you will present your credentials, to the reader (tap your phone or access card to it), and the authentication process will begin.īehind the scenes, at this point, the reader will take the Bluetooth or NFC signal from your phone and pass it along to the controller on a Bluetooth or Wifi signal. If you opt for a modern IP access control system like Kisi, unlocking will be done all over mobile, or access cards if you prefer those. The controller receives authentication info from the reader, and relays a signal to the power supply, which then sends an impulse to the lock, thus unlocking it. This diagram is a basic representation of how a Kisi controller is wired to an electronic lock (a maglock in the diagram, though the principle is the exact same for a mortise lock). While the codes differ based on the city and the type of building, there are many commonalities, and Kisi has a handy guide to help you figure out what you need for your space. In addition, you should check with fire marshals to ensure that you’re adhering to all relevant codes. Given that the mortise lock is a fail-secure lock, you will have to make sure that it’s never an impediment to an emergency exit for the building (or if it is on an exit route, you’ll want a panic push bar on the door beside it). More on access control later in this article! Other Things to Look out for During the Installation For the latter, you will need to connect the wires to the power supply and access control systems that you’ve opted for, and attempt an unlock. The former is simply accomplished by trying out the backup key that your installer or manufacturer furnished you with. With such a simple lock, there will thankfully be only two components to test: the analog key lock mechanism, and the electronic unlocking. Once you’ve got it installed, you will of course want to make sure that the lock is functioning properly. Consult with an installer on location for a more personalized opinion! If you prefer the cables to be hidden, there are actually electrified door hinges that can help reduce the footprint of the cabling. The former option is a bit more difficult, as it requires more work carving out the space for them, but it is certainly more elegant and visually pleasing than the latter. At this point, you’ll have a decision to make: Whether to run the cables inside the door, or outside of it. Once you’ve installed the lock in the door, you will have cabling to account for as well. You can find complete installation info and data sheets at that link! For a good, reliable electronic mortise lock, Kisi recommends the Schlage L series.
Of course, if your door already has a mortise lock, then upgrading to an electronic mortise lock is super straightforward - you can just replace the existing one with an electric one of similar dimensions, and there is no need to change anything else.
PARTS OF A MORTISE LOCK HOW TO
How to Install ItĪ mortise lock is generally a bit more involved, as you will need to cut out the mold in the door itself. While you certainly don’t want this on any door that’s part of an emergency exit route, if you have a room that should remain locked at all times even in the case of a power outage, an electronic mortise lock is a good bet. This makes it an attractive option for those doors that secure sensitive areas, like IT rooms or records rooms.
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